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Minneapolis, MN “Handyman” Advice: Plumbing-Faucet Installation
Keith Paul
Installing a new water faucet is not the plumbing nightmare it used to be.  These days, new faucet installation may only require an adjustable crescent wrench and a little physical flexibility when working under a sink.  The most difficult part for the handyman is often removing the old faucet.   


The single-handle kitchen faucet with a sprayer attachment is the most commonly used type.  Many common faucets used are Delta and American Standard faucets.  The handyman tips offered in this article also apply to bathroom faucets, which usually come with a new pop-up stopper assembly to match. 


Looking up from under the sink, you will see the sprayer hose to the left and a faucet mounting bolts with a wide washer and nut.  Between the two mounting bolts are three copper connections; the hot and cold inlet tubes and the spray hose nipple.  Of course, there are many different styles, depending on the age of the faucet, so there could be variations.   


The trickiest part for the handyman is working in a cramped area, which is probably one reason plumbers charge so much!  Disassembly would be so simple if it could just all be right in front of you, where you could work on your feet instead of laying on your back, reaching above and behind you as you work.  Removal problems include shut-off valves that don’t shut-off properly and corroded mounting hardware.  We’ll address these problems. 


Completely clean out the clutter from under the sink and spread a thick towel.  Things happen, so have a bucket handy too.  Wrap rags around the base of the pipes coming up through the floor to keep water from leaking under the cabinet or to the room below if you’re working upstairs.  Eye protection or a full-face shield is not a bad idea as you are looking up and working right above your face where debris or nuts and bolts can fall in your eyes, nose and mouth.   


It is preferable to turn off the water from the shut-off under the sink, if they work.  You could turn off the main shut-off to the house too, but there is a potential problem of draindown.  Draindown occurs when someone opens another faucet or flushes a toilet that is located higher than the shut-offs you are working on.  Once the vacuum within the pipes is broken, water quickly drains down, through the open shut-offs, spraying and flooding the room you’re working in.  Even if no one else is in the house, there will be some leakage from an open shut-off valve.  If the leak is slight and you’re a quick worker, you might be OK, but for best results, try to turn off the water at the point where you are working. 


Most shut-offs are only used when faucets are being replaced and believe me; lack of use does not mean longer life!  Formation of scale, a hard plaque on the metal parts from minerals in the water, causes shut-offs to become tight and sometimes inoperable.  This is one of the biggest problems for the handyman or plumber. 


Vice grips or pliers for leverage on the handles can turn most shut-offs, but be careful you don’t break or bend the line they’re attached to.  Turn the shut-off counter-clockwise first to attempt to free it up.  Sometimes turning it back and forth a few times will loosen it up.   


Loosen the packing nut located at the base of the stem where it enters the shut-off body.  Some plumbers over-tighten these to quickly stop a leak, making them impossible to turn.  The main water should be turned off to do this, or it will drip or spray.  Use two wrenches for this; one on the packing nut and one on the faucet body to avoid putting too much pressure on the pipes.  Do not forget to tighten the packing nut before turning the main water back on.  Just tighten it about a quarter turn tighter than necessary to stop the dripping around the stem. 


Repairing or replacing the shut-off may be necessary.  Repair requires disassembling, lubricating, replacing the packing and the washer, and then reassembling.  Or, just take the assembly to a plumbing store and get a new shut-off and change the stem which will contain the new packing and a washer.  In some cases, you may have to replace the old shut-off. 


Removing the old sprayer is easy.  Don’t’ bother unscrewing any connections; simply cut the sprayer at its lowest point, keeping a bucket under it.  Then, hold each end over the bucket and open both the hot and cold faucet to activate the old sprayer and drain all the water from the hose.  That was easy! 


Now it’s time to disconnect the faucet from the plumbing.  A good handyman or plumber will recommend changing the inlet tubes as well, even if they appear to be in good shape.  If you have an all-copper supply unit, it may be difficult to remove.  Cut the tubes, close to the shut-off and allow them to drain into a bucket with the faucet open to break the vacuum. 


Unbolting the faucet from the sink is often the hardest part.  Newer sinks are installed using rust-proof plastic fasteners, stainless steel or quality zinc-plated fasteners which don’t corrode.  Older fasteners could be corroded and tough to remove.  A long-term, slow leak may have caused hard mineral deposits to form around the faucet mounting gasket and the connections, covering them with rock hard mineral deposits. 


You might need to get aggressive at this point.  Use a drill to carefully make a small pilot hole in the nut, then use a large enough bit to break the nut.  You may need to do this in two or more locations to free it.  Pull the faucet out and clean up the mess before installing a new one.  The ring around the faucet, caused by putty or caulk can be removed by scraping.  You may soften it up with a hair dryer or heat gun.  Use a mild abrasive cleanser to finish the clean-up.   


Most faucets come with instructions.  Even the professional handyman or plumber will admit that it is necessary to refer to the instructions in case of changes in materials and procedures that they may not be aware of.   


Install the new sprayer first.  It will be more difficult to attach once the faucet is in place.  Put soft plumber’s putty around the base; use plenty of it to avoid water leaking.  Insert the faucet end of the sprayer hose through the base and back up through the center of the three faucet holes.  Wrap the threads with two or three overlaps of Teflon tape and attach the hose to the faucet.  Don’t forget to place the plastic or rubber gasket on the faucet before attaching the sprayer hose, if it has one.  Tighten firmly.   


Now for the inlet tubes, special supply lines used to make the final connection between the shut-off and the faucet.  If possible, attach them to the faucet before you position it on the sink.  This is easier than doing it from under the sink, especially if you have a very deep sink.  Some faucets use the same threaded nipples to attach the faucet to the sink and to attach the water supply tubes, leaving no choice but to attach the inlet hoses, from underneath the sink, after the faucet is in place. 


Attach the faucet to the sink using a ¼ inch bead of plumber’s putty under the rim of the faucet, if the manufacturer requires it.  Some require silicone caulk.  Do not use latex caulk!  This is much more adhesive than silicone, making it difficult to remove and replace the faucet again in the future. 


Use the hardware supplied with the faucet; attach the faucet body to the underside of the sink.  Come out and do a final check for proper alignment of the faucet before tightening. 


When attaching the faucet to the plumbing, you can save yourself a lot of aggravation by using flexible type hoses.  Some are plastic covered; others are a stainless steel type.  The stainless steel is a little more expensive, but better because they are more burst-proof.  Do not over-tighten the nuts on the inlet hoses.  Turn them till they’re hand-tight, then an additional ½ to 1 full turn.  As you have probably discovered by this point, even a simple plumbing job can be difficult.  Buy the best of everything to avoid doing this job again in the near future.  You get what you pay for; don’t try to be conservative when choosing plumbing supplies.   


Test for leaks by turning on the water supply, slowly.  If you see leaks, turn it off and tighten the connection just a little.  Repeat as necessary until full pressure causes no leaks. 


Remove the aerator from the faucet and run water through it to clear any debris that may have entered the lines during installation.  Test the sprayer.  Remove the head to flush out the line, just like you did with the faucet aerator.  Reattach the aerator and sprayer head, clean up and you’re done! 


If this proves to be too much work, you may want to hire it done.  You can call a plumber, but he will charge a lot.  Plumbers have a special rule they live by:  Hot on the left, crap flows down and charge as much as you want!  And they typically do.  A new faucet doesn’t necessarily require a specialist.  Maybe you have some other odds and ends type of projects to do around the house, like a door that sticks, an unfinished project requiring some trim work or a hanging gutter.  Make a to-do list, and then call your local handyman to come in and fix everything at once.   


Persistence and determination are a handyman’s best qualities, especially when it comes to plumbing.  Look at all the choices of faucets available and pick the one that fits your budget and looks nice in your kitchen or bathroom.  Be sure to choose the highest quality faucet affordable so that you don’t have to repeat this job again in the near future. 


This article was written by Collin Dickey, owner of HandyPro Handyman Services in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  HandyPro specializes in home repairs and seasonal home maintenance projects.  They can handle small repairs or do large remodeling jobs.   Our pre-screened contractors are licensed and bonded, experienced and customer friendly.  We strive for 100% customer satisfaction in doing quality work and cleaning up when the job is complete.  http://www.handypro.com services Hennepin County, Minnetonka, Eden Prairie, Roseville, Osseo, St. Louis Park, Richfield, Brooklyn Center, Deephaven, Crystal Bay, New Hope, Chaska, Hamel, Long Lake, Greenwood, West St. Paul, and neighboring cities and communities.

Source: http://easycontentpro.com

HandyPro® specializes in helping the homeowner, business or property manager to have minor repairs and maintenance jobs completed professionally, in a timely manner, and guarantees the work to the customers satisfaction. HandyPro® offers affordable solutions to a wide variety of building repairs and maintenance. We offer convenience to homeowners at a level of service YOU deserve- Guaranteed!!

"Minneapolis, MN “Handyman” Advice: Plumbing-Faucet Installation"
written by Keith Paul

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